Joel Robuchon, formerly chef at three-star Jamin, was one of the first French chefs to reject the constraints of three-star cuisine. Here, customers sit on high stools at a chic bar surrounding a central open kitchen savoring delicious, innovative, and refined food. It’s fascinating to watch the cooks working with such quiet elegance that their movements seem choreographed. The menu allows diners the option of ordering a series of small portions rather than the standard appetizer and main course, a real plus when there are so many tempting choices. The food is divine and the service friendly and professional.
It’s easy to dine here when you’re alone and looking for a special meal; you may even wind up best friends with the person sitting next to you. Alas, the restaurant only takes reservations for the first seatings at lunch and dinner so there is usually a wait. To pass the time, it’s possible to have a drink in the lounge of the hotel. Expensive but the small plate option allows some flexibility.
Favorites: the bread and butter; layered eggplant, zucchini, sun dried tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil; poached egg with essence of mushroom and girolles; seared scallops topped with black truffles and black pepper; roast bar with lemon and leeks; salad with fresh tuna.